From Aspen to Crested Butte: A perfect fall getaway
Sarah Girgis/The Aspen Times
It’s that perfect time of year in the Rockies — fall.
When the crazy crowds die down and the leaves begin to turn, it’s just about as perfect as it gets in this little town called Aspen. From less crowded hiking and biking trails to finally snagging a bar seat at a popular restaurant, this short season reminds us why we call this place home.
Fall is also a great time to explore other small Colorado towns, like the popular locals’ getaway of Crested Butte. As the crow flies the two mountain towns are within walking distance via an 11-mile trail from Aspen to Crested Butte that takes hikers over the 12,500-foot West Maroon Pass and offers some of the most spectacular leaf peeping in the country.
For road trippers, by car, Crested Butte and Aspen are 100-plus miles apart. The drive takes you through two mountain passes, McClure and Kebler, which takes roughly two and a half hours this time of year.
In many ways, Aspen and Crested Butte are two sides of the same coin. Both are historic mining towns known for outstanding outside recreational activities from skiing in the winter to mountain biking on epic trails, hiking in alpine and aspen forests, fishing and whitewater rafting, and kayaking in the summer and fall.
But with a population of roughly 1,660 people, Crested Butte can be a nice break from the hustle and bustle of Aspen, without sacrificing first-rate accommodations, creative cocktail bars, and diverse dining options.
STAY: Vaquera House
A relative newcomer on the list of accommodations in Crested Butte, the 10-room inn feels more like visiting an intimate countryside lodge or a friend’s home than a hotel. That is the vision that owner Julianne Daniel intentionally created when she and her husband bought the formerly run-down property in 2019 and gut-renovated it. She said that she “loved the idea of creating a space that feels like a luxury home with all the amenities and services of a five-star hotel.”
And on that, it delivers.
The shared space is filled with unique, beautiful, and playful art and includes small individual nooks and spaces that guests can enjoy without being on top of each other and also boasts a great room with a fireplace and pool table for those who are more sociable. The name and decor are a nod to her family’s ranching roots.
Every detail is carefully thought out. From the fine Italian linens on the beds and in-room amenities to an included made-to-order breakfast and daily happy hour, Daniel and her team create a seamless and relaxing experience.
Vaquera House is located just two blocks from Elk Avenue (Crested Butte’s main drag), so it’s an easy walk to everything the historic downtown has to offer.
SEE & DO:
Horseback riding with Fantasy Ranch
If enjoying fall to the fullest means riding a horse through golden Aspen trees, then Fantasy Ranch Outfitters has you covered. The stables are located at Mount Crested Butte and offer a couple of trail ride options (1.5 and 2 hours) on Snodgrass Mountain. Most importantly the horses are clearly well cared for. The staff was friendly and accommodating, and the guide, Lee McClaine (who doubles as a snowboard instructor in winter), kept the ride fun and interesting by telling stories of the area and pointing out local flora and fauna. A special shoutout to Itchy, the gentle giant I had the privilege of riding.
Special Mention: Vinotok
Vinotok only happens once a year, but if you happen to be in Crested Butte when it does, there will be clues. But don’t ask anyone too many details because they won’t tell you.
Essentially, “Vinotok is an autumn equinox festival celebrating nature, community, and the harvest.” It originated in 1970 out of a local conflict between a mining corporation and a group of young people who wanted to “go back to the land.”
A lot has happened since then, but it is still a significant event for the community, with about 250 people coming together to organize a week of celebrations. It culminates with the revelers parading down Elk Avenue with an effigy of the “The Grump.” The grand finale is the “burning of the grump,” where participants write down what they want to let go or a “grievance,” which is then stuffed inside the grump and burned along with him.
This year’s final day was met with the first snowstorm of the season, which did not deter locals from getting out and participating in the annual tradition.
EAT & DRINK:
Breakfast at Vaquera House
One of the perks of staying at Vaquera House is the daily breakfast made by a private chef in their dining room. The menu offered something for everyone and included a variety of beverages and dishes like the Spiced Cherry French Toast, and the Colorado Benedict featuring pork green chili and a memorable savory hashbrown waffle.
Lunch at Secret Stash
From the lines winding out the door, it’s evident that the pizzeria is the most popular place in town. The vibe is organized chaos, but the team is seasoned and knows how to keep everything running smoothly. The menu is large and varied and includes all the usual suspects, including vegan and gluten-free options. On their specialty menu, The Notorious FIG with a bleu cheese crumble base, asiago, mozzarella, prosciutto, black mission figs, and truffle oil is popular. For those who crave a super spicy pie, The Spicy Wais with traditional sauce, Sriracha swirl, mozzarella, pepperoni, minced garlic, cilantro, grape tomatoes, and fresh jalapeños will hit you in the back of the throat (in a good way).
Drinks and charcuterie at The Dogwood
The Dogwood came highly recommended by a friend with great taste in Aspen, so naturally, that was the first stop of the evening. Tucked into a miner’s cabin just off Elk Avenue, The Dogwood offers a cocktail selection that boasts an array of contemporary classics, original concepts, house-infused spirits, and homemade simples. The back patio is a great place to bask in the fall sun and enjoy a cocktail and charcuterie board. The lively conversation with both travelers and locals was particularly enjoyable.
Dinner at Sunflower
Like The Dogwood, Sunflower came recommended by two Aspen locals. The farm-to-table eatery is independently owned and operated by husband and wife team Chris and Natalie Phillips. The space is intimate and rustic inside, with a large patio out back. The menu highlights seasonal ingredients from local farms and offers a unique wine list that includes both old and new world wines. The chef’s talent with vegetables was on display with the Roasted Beets & Carrots, with beet yogurt, carrot-tarragon emulsion, black chickpeas, and savory granola.
Sarah Girgis is the Publisher for The Aspen Times. She can be reached at 970-429-9151 or sgirgis@aspentimes.com.
