High Points: Swedish Hill is MML-good

“I think the Grilled Pastrami Reuben is the best thing we do,” said the young man behind the counter at Swedish Hill Aspen as he watched me slowly peruse the menu, obviously undecided about what to order. At $20, it was one of the most expensive items on the menu, and it sounded a little over the top for a light lunch. But I agreed and got the Reuben, along with a sparkling ginger lemonade.

Bingo!

The pastrami was “deli-flavorful,” the rye bread crisply grilled, the Russian dressing and just the right amount of sauerkraut gave it a spicy bite, and the gooey Gruyère cheese tied it all together. It was one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in the valley, ranking right up there with the grilled cheese BLT at Sure Thing Burger in Basalt — but that’s another story.

If you have been to Swedish Hill Aspen, the restaurant atop the stairs at the Aspen Art Museum, then you know it is one of the top spots in town for breakfast, lunch, or a simple gathering with friends for coffee, tea, or a glass of wine. Casual and unassuming, with counter service and a drop-dead view of Aspen Mountain, the place has become a go-to spot for locals and visitors alike.

Swedish Hill Aspen is Aspen’s version of the Swedish Hill Cafe and Deli found on historic Sixth Street in downtown Austin, Texas. Open for just over a year now, it is the third restaurant opened in Aspen by MML Hospitality, which also owns and operates Clark’s Oyster Bar and Las Montañas in the inner core of Aspen, as well as Louis Swiss Bakery over at the Aspen Airport Business Center. They are also the group putting a chunk of change into the Aspen Mountain Chalet, where they plan to open a pair of public restaurants when that reimagining is completed.

The Austin-Aspen connection is pretty tight right now. There are so many folks from the blue dot in the red state of Texas here these days that some have come to call us Austin, Colorado.

In fact, I was surprised the Democratic delegation of the Texas House of Representatives who left the state to shut down the redistricting vote didn’t decamp for here, instead of Chicago.

Austin-born and-bred, MML Hospitality has set a good example of how to make a splash without making waves. The restaurant and hotel group began their Aspen adventure by opening Clark’s Oyster Bar in the old Little Annie’s space in 2018, updating but keeping the original wood siding motif on the exterior. Seafood-centric (though they have a killer steak tartare on the menu), the stylish restaurant has become a favorite in town, and they pay homage to the lamented Little Annie’s by offering a shot and a beer — Coors Light or Coors OG, and bourbon or tequila – for just $9 if you are a card-carrying Aspen or Austin local. That may be the cheapest buzz in town.

For their next foray in our local dining scene, they moved into the long-beloved Jimmy’s space with its epic patio and sunset views above restaurant row. There they opened the Tex-Mex-inspired Las Montañas. With the $23 Guacamole Classico and the $79 Pineapple and Soy Marinated Ribeye Sizzling Fajitas (serves up to two), it may not be everyone’s cup of cerveza, but they do what they do well. A friend who spends as much time (and money) in Aspen’s fine dining establishments as just about anyone I know says, “Serve good food, and offer good service. How hard can that be? But not everybody does that. The MML places do. They get it.”

Which brings us back to Swedish Hill Aspen — in addition to that pastrami Rueben, they do great soups and salads and offer lox, fresh bagels, and pastries from Louis Swiss. Their Brazilian Black Cat Analog coffee and Kilogram teas are worth taking the time to sip and savor and the staff serves it all up with a smile.

This may be the best Texas import in Aspen history.

Note: In the July 25 High Points, this author misspelled the name of Andy Zanca Youth Empowerment Program. My apologies to all the kids in AZYEP who work hard to get things right.