Bar Talk: Catch Steak
Rose Laudicina/Courtesy photo
What pairs well with the offseason in Aspen?
Making time to treat yourself, which means taking advantage of the special places in Aspen and the Roaring Fork Valley without the crowds or the inability to get a reservation.
This week at Bar Talk, we are treating ourselves to a multi-course dinner and drinks at Catch Steak Aspen because we worked hard for the money this winter, so it’s time to spend some of it on ourselves.
Unlike many other posh spots in Aspen that close their doors for the offseason, Catch Steak has chosen to remain open five days a week, operating Wednesday through Sunday, 6-9 p.m.
While the menu is slightly reduced — because, as Catch Steak Aspen General Manager David Richardson put it, “town is also reduced” — some Catch Steak classics (Hello, caviar-topped potato croquettes) are still there along with some new additions for the spring.
The normal atmosphere at this modern take on a steakhouse is a cozy space buzzing with energy from open to close with patrons ready to see and be seen.
The offseason Catch Steak vibe, however, is much more relaxed, although the service is still top-tier, attentive, and intimate.
Although there is no official pairing menu at the steakhouse, the wine and cocktail list is extensive, even in the off-season, and the staff is knowledgeable about both the food and drink offerings and can help guide you through.
One thing to note if you’re planning to create your pairing dinner is the format of Catch Steak: They have you order every course at once, leaving the server in charge of pacing your meal out for you. This means it might be wise to let your waiter know what drinks you’re hoping to enjoy with what course and trust that they are all more than capable of making it happen.
Course 1 – Pacific Hamachi Crudo + Main Squeeze Cocktail | Bluefin Tuna Tartare + Champalou Chenin Blanc.
For our first course, my dining companion and I started with the surf, so our second course could be focused on the turf. Both the Main Squeeze Cocktail and Pacific Hamachi crudo are built to impress with their visual delivery, as we eat/drink with our eyes first, but the two items back up the visual statement with bold flavors.
Comprised of Grey Goose Vodka, yuzu, strawberry, pink peppercorn, 24-hour Lemon Oleo (a lemon oil collected from a lemon peel and sugar mixture left to sit for 24 hours), and served up in a martini glass with a sprinkling of pink peppercorn and sugar along the glass, the Main Squeeze Cocktail is well-balanced. The yuzu gives the drink a punch of tart citrus when it first hits the tongue that then transitions into a fresh and slightly sweet hit of strawberry. Despite looking like a holiday drink, the cocktail is well suited for a warm spring or summer day.
The cocktail compliments the crudo as both items have a yuzu base, but the salty and bright freshness of the yellowtail, which is cured with beets and garnished with a yuzu-pear-mint relish, also helps bring out the natural sweetness of the drink along with the hint of heat from the pepper.
Tip: The crudo is served with soy sauce, but it’s not needed. I’d recommend enjoying the flavors untarnished by the additional sauce.
A new item for spring, the bluefin tuna tartare is served over a creamy avocado purée and garnished with Kaluga caviar alongside house-made, extremely thin-cut potato chips. The acidity of the Champalou Chenin-Blanc paired nicely with the flavors and acidity of the tartare and helped to cut through the oily residue from the chips but didn’t overpower the delicate nature of the dish. Together, the two would be a perfect patio pairing for when the weather turns consistently warm and Catch Steak opens up its coveted rooftop patio space.
Tip: Try the tartare with the seasoned waffle fries. It’s an unexpected combination that will make you “feel rich.”
Course 2 – 6 oz. Dry-Aged Prime Rib Cap + Ferrand Lartigue St Emilion Grand Cru | 8 oz. Truffle Butter Filet + Finca Nueva Reserva Tempranillo
If you’ve read my column before, you know I don’t pretend to know wine and typically leave the wine discussion to the talented Kelly Hayes in the WineInk column space; but for Course 2, we moved on to steak, which called for wine according to GM Richardson.
The prime rib cap is a Colorado-sourced steak from Fort Morgan, perfectly crusted with butter, salt, pepper, garlic, and rosemary and continues to build in flavor after each bite. While it can be enjoyed with either glass, it pairs best with the full-bodied and oaky St Emilion, a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon, which both complement the steak and are bold enough to cut through the unique richness.
Tip: Don’t skip an order of the crispy potato croquettes topped with crème fraiche and Osetra caviar. And if you’re looking for what to pair with these, pair them with another order — they are that good.
Course 3 – Chocolate Layer Cake + Reserve Espresso Martini
To be honest, by this point in the meal, my dining companion and I were stuffed. However, at the beginning of the meal, we had mentally committed to trying the legendary Catch Steak 13-layer chocolate cake coated in a shell of dark chocolate and crunchy hazelnuts, and even if all we took was one bite (We made it through at least two and took the rest home alone with the steak leftovers), we were determined to follow through.
The chocolate cake is both impressive and imposing in presentation and tastes like the cake version of a Ferrero Rocher. The pairing with the Reserve Espresso Martini — a mix of Patrón reposado, Kahlua, Demerara sugar, and espresso — is extremely decadent but also makes complete sense.
The reserve espresso martini is very well-chilled — a necessary component for a good espresso martini — and coffee forward, layered with notes of vanilla and a bit of citrus.
Both the cake and the cocktail are a delicate balance of sweet and bitter, neither tipping too far in either direction.
Tip: If you’re looking for a nightcap that will also re-invigorate and fuel you for the rest of the evening’s escapades, this pairing is what you want to order.
