WineInk: An all-American Thanksgiving

I don’t know about you, but my favorite holiday on the calendar each year is undoubtedly Thanksgiving Thursday. Of course, it is the day that Aspen One cranks up the chairlifts for the first day of skiing, and that in itself would be enough to make it numero uno on the holiday countdown.

But it is also a day of gratitude — a day where we pause from all that we do to be grateful for all that we have. And, if you are skiing on Thanksgiving in Aspen, you have much to be thankful for. Oh, and by the way, how great was it to see those ribbons of white on the snowcapped mountains this past week? It kind of gives us all a little hope that winter will come after all.

But I digress.

Thanksgiving is also the most wine-centric of all the holidays. Wait, you may say, “What about New Year’s Eve?” You have a point, as the popping of a bottle of bubbly is the signature feature of the New Year’s holiday. But Thanksgiving is all about the long play. It provides the opportunity not just for celebration, but also for relaxation and contemplation with myriad wines — all selected because they pair well with the star of the day: the Thanksgiving meal.

Me thinks that the perfect Thanksgiving repast should include all the traditional food favorites, with a roasted turkey as the lead actor and mashed potatoes and gravy, green bean casseroles, stuffing, cranberries, Brussels sprouts, and marshmallow-topped sweet potatoes all playing supporting roles. And it would just be plain wrong not to have pies — pumpkin and pecan — with whipped cream for the big finish. In fact, there are those who say the pies are the real stars of the day.

A meal like that deserves fine wine, and I would suggest an equally diverse selection for this celebratory gathering of family and friends. How about five bottles from five different grapes? And because this is the most American of all holidays, how about we select wines from the states? That’s right, let’s celebrate America with each bottle coming from a different state. That’s five wines, five states. And let’s drink wines made by pioneering producers in each.

We can begin with a bottle of sparkling wine because nothing says “thanks” like bubbles in a champagne flute. Let’s pour a glass of the Gruet Blanc De Noirs to drink with the sunset after we take our first turns on the slopes of Aspen or Snowmass. Made in New Mexico, Gruet was founded by a French Champagne producer Gilbert Gruet, who brought his family to America and planted a vineyard in the hills just outside Truth or Consequences. They released their first wines in 1989, and the brand has since become a favorite for those who love sparkling wines. This blend of pinot noir and chardonnay is made using the Champagne, or traditional, method, and the wine is presented with a salmon shade of pale red or amber in the glass. Notes of apple and citrus are evident, and there is crisp acidity on the finish. It is a perfect wine to sip as you nibble on an appetizer or some holiday nuts — or make a holiday toast.

We’re going to need a pair of white wines, and I thought we would take a trip to New York State and the Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area in upstate New York just south of Lake Ontario, for the next wine. A semi-dry riesling from the winery of Dr. Konstantin Frank, the pioneering producer of one of America’s most beautiful wine regions.

Founded by Ukrainian-Russian immigrant Konstantin Frank — coincidentally, born on the Fourth of July in 1899 — who first planted vines on the slopes surrounding Lake Keuka in the 1950s, the wines he produced changed the path of America’s wine industry by introducing vinifera (grapes grown for the production of fine wines) to the region. While the winery today produces a broad selection of almost 50 wines, the riesling bottlings may still be the best known.

As I like a touch of sweetness in a riesling, I would opt for the newly released Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling 2024. Apricot and honeydew aromas explode from the bottle when the screw cap is opened on this wine, and there is that touch of sugar — but not too much — on the palate. This wine will pair with most things that are part of the Thanksgiving dinner, including the turkey and the pie.

Two wines and two states. It’s time for a wine from California, and any Thanksgiving dinner needs a bottle of chardonnay. One of my favorites has always been those made by the Trefethen Family in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. These wines are quintessential chardonnays that set the standard for what the grape could be in Napa. If given the option, I would select the single vineyard release from Katie’s Acre, a limited production wine sold as part of the winery’s Legacy Collection.

Time to turn to red, and the first thing that came to mind was a pinot noir from Oregon to pair with the bird. So many choices. But since we are going for classic producers with legacy wines, I instantly thought of the wines of the late Dick Erath. He planted his first pinot noir in the Dundee Hills in the Willamette Valley south of Portland and spent the rest of his life — until his death in 2023 — at the ripe age of 87 — watching a region and an industry grow up around him. He sold the winery in 2006 to what is now known as Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. For my turkey, I would select a bottle of the 2023 Erath Carabella Pinot Noir. Berries abound and plums mingle in this bottle, which is balanced and expressive of the region.

Finally, after dinner is done, let’s hope there is still room for pie. Depending upon how much your crowd drinks, you may or may not have a glass of the Gruet, a little riesling, or some pinot noir left over to sip with your pumpkin or pecan pie. But there is another option with a wine made by a Colorado producer. You may know Alfred Eames Cellars, the seminal winery that sits on the Puesta Del Sol Vineyards just south of Paonia that opened in 1998. Well, it turns out they produce a fortified wine, a tawny port, under the name “Noche.” I think it might work with the pie. YUM.

Oh, and on Dec. 6 and 7, Alfred Eames Cellars will be hosting their annual Barrel Tasting event with music, food, and wine at the winery at 11931 4050 Road in Paonia. It is a great way to celebrate both the holidays and wine. For more information, go to alfredeamescellars.com/events.

Have a great Thanksgiving, everyone. And thanks for reading.