Bar Talk: Milky cocktails

Bringing milk into the cocktail conversation can be divisive.

Some people are intrigued or will profess their love for the dairy-based White Russian, while others wrinkle their noses and say the idea makes their stomachs curdle.

But what if curdles are the key to making an excellent, milk-based cocktail? A clarified milk punch to be exact.

The clarified milk punch cocktail has somewhat murky roots (My internet digging had mentions surfacing in Europe as early as 1688, while others attribute its creation to a royal spy and English playwright Aphra Behn), but I had my first taste at Lady Jane, an excellent mid-mod style cocktail bar in the LoHi neighborhood of Denver. 

This specifically clarified concoction from Lady Jane used goat milk. While their cocktails rotate, there are currently two clarified drinks on the current menu — one of them again featuring goat milk that, in addition to being clarified, is also carbonated.

I was intrigued immediately by the concept of the execution of the clarified libation and set out to learn more about this unique style of cocktail.

According to the definition authority Merriam-Webster, “clarified” means to make or become pure or clear. The meaning of a clarified milk punch is not much different as the process starts cloudy only to culminate in a clear drink that has been rid of impurities.

By combining the milk — whole is best, and non-animal-based milk proves tricky to replicate the process — and the alcohol (already mixed with the other cocktail ingredients), the milk curdles over time and is then strained to result in a clarified luxurious and flavorful cocktail.

It sounds somewhat scientific, but it’s achievable by the home bartender, as long as said home bartender exercises patience.

For my first foray into clarified milk punch cocktails, I made a clarified gimlet.

Traditionally, a gimlet is gin, simple syrup, and fresh lime juice. It’s a classic cocktail that is a classic for a reason; a clean balance between sweet, tart, and floral flavors that is light and easy to sip from the coup glass it’s served in.

A clarified gimlet is much of the same — just add milk, wait for it to curdle, and strain.

As it turns out, the sequence of events matters when it comes to clarified milk punch cocktails since the key is the curdle.

The golden rule is that you should add the spirit mixture to the milk, not the other way around. While the cocktail/milk will still curdle, the resulting clarity after straining will not be as clear.

The first step for the clarified gimlet is to measure and shake up the cocktail. Then, the cocktail gets poured into the milk — the method that I followed used cold, whole milk — and then a lid or some sort of seal is put on the mixture; in the fridge, it sits as the curdles get to work, pulling out the impurities and only leaving the good stuff.

Recipes vary when it comes to how long the concoction should be left in the fridge to curdle, from 30 minutes to 24 hours or more, but you can tell when it’s ready by looking at it and seeing the separation to know when it’s time to strain. For example, my clarified gimlet took about 24 hours before it was ready.

Once ready to be strained, using cheesecloth or an ultra-fine mesh strainer — and still you might want to make a few passes — pour the milky mixture slowly through to catch the curds, and what you are left with is a clear cocktail that, while similar to a non-milk-based cocktail in appearance, is different in taste.

The milk punch gimlet was denser than the traditional, with a robust mouthfeel that was almost velvety — a completely different experience from drinking the original. The acidity was muted, and the floral nature of the gin was enhanced, while the citrus scents had been replaced by a slightly milky smell.

It was almost reminiscent of a tiki drink made with orgeat, making it feel like a tropical take on a gimlet.

If I were to choose, I’d opt for the gimlet with a meal, as it makes for an easy pairing, while I’d take the milk punch for a happy hour or an excellent after-dinner sipper.

Recipe adapted from Roosevelt Cocktail Club Clarified gimlet/2 cocktails

2 oz. simple syrup
2 oz. fresh lime juice 
5 oz. gin 
3 oz. whole milk

Combine all ingredients except for the milk in a shaker with ice. Shake well, and pour into the milk. The milk should start to curdle. Cover the milk mixture and put in the fridge for 24 hours. 

Once the mixture has separated, strain through a cheesecloth or fine mesh strainer into a steamed chilled cocktail glass or coup glass, and serve with a lime wedge to garnish.