Paul E. Anna: High Points
The Aspen Times
Aspen, CO Colorado
There many great reasons to live in Glenwood Springs. Now you can add one more, the opening of a new restaurant called The Pullman.
The Pullman served the public for the first time last night in a terrific corner space just opposite the Amtrak train station on 7th street above the Colorado River. A product of Mark Fischer and his wife, Lari, The Pullman brings together many of the things that have made their Carbondale restaurants, six89 and Phat Thai, so popular with locals while infusing a dose of Glenwood-ian charm. It is sure to be hit with both residents, up-valley foodies and the clientele that the train drags in.
The pair found the space, the old Ritz nightclub, in the spring of last year and saw potential. Working with chef, friend and builder Glen Smith, they spent the last five months first completely gutting the expansive room, and then creating a comfortable open space that is filled with sunshine during the day and frames the Hot Springs and Hotel Colorado lights at night.
Step in and the initial thought is “I want to be here.” It is softly lit, industrial and spare in design and the brick walls that had been covered for decades are showcased once again. In the front room is a large bar that allows visitors to check out the latest sports on two big TVs, or lets them simply gaze at the views through the windows.
In the back, behind a large copper pig, a piece produced by the late great Gene Adcock, is an open kitchen that, on a recent soft opening night, buzzed with activity. The place smells great and, as anyone who has ever been to Fischer’s other restaurants knows, his food tastes even better than it smells.
While this is sophisticated food, it is as accessible as it is delicious. Start with the Fries and a soft poached egg or the Bacon Beignets. Both offer big bites of flavor in small portions that are perfect for sharing. The Flatbreads with a plethora of toppings, all featuring the freshest of greens, are a steal and a meal at $10. These are quintessential bar food favorites and you can wash them down with a can of, that’s right a can, of Oskar Blues Pale Ale.
Entree’s are also affordable in the $12-$16 range with nothing on the menu offered over $18 (the braised forever shortribs). Pastas can be ordered in half or full portions and even the half orders can make a meal for one. The wine list features selections from around the globe and again, is focused on the affordable with the most expensive bottle topping out at just $50.
All of this focus on price should not distract from the overall mission of The Pullman and that is to serve really innovate, really fun, really great food. And they do just that.
Who would have thunk it? Glenwood Springs, and particularly restaurant row on 7th Street where Juicy Lucy’s and the Glenwood Springs Canyon Brew Pub share space with The Pullman, has become a dining destination.
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