WineInk: Buy a bottle or by the glass?

We’ve all been there: You’re meeting friends for dinner, and the host shows you to your table. Before you have even had the time to say your hellos, the server shows up, introduces themself and asks, “Can I get you something to drink?” You haven’t had a chance to peruse the wine list or even glance at the menu, but one of the folks at your four-top immediately says, “I’ll have a glass of chardonnay.” It’s not the end of the world, of course, but it can put the kibosh on any well-organized wine consumption plans you’ve made.

Unless you are one of those baller wine types who automatically orders multiple bottles of white Burgundy and first-growth Bordeaux with every meal out, you may have felt the consternation that comes with choosing whether to buy a bottle of wine from the wine list or ordering multiple glasses of wine from the by-the-glass list. There are advantages — and disadvantages — to both, and it depends on your circumstances which is the better choice.

Of course, if money is no object, then have at it. There is no better feeling for a wine aficionado than having the wherewithal to select the best bottles or the ones that pique your interest the most from a great wine list. Being able to pick and choose from the best producers and the best vintages can be a heady experience. Literally. And there are folks who have that option, particularly in this town. Don’t be a hater. It’s people like that who keep the top end of the market for fine wines well lubricated. Better to have high-end buyers than not. Especially if they share.

But for most of us, the price of a bottle, and even the price of a by-the-glass wine selection, is a value proposition. How can I get the best possible wine experience for the lowest possible price? That’s not to say that price should totally dictate what wine you order with your meal when dining out, but it is, for most of us, a consideration.

When dining alone, for instance, the deck is stacked in favor of selecting a wine by the glass. Even though it’s hard to find a glass of wine these days, especially a wine of quality, for under $15 a glass, that beats ordering a bottle off the list for $50 and up. And if you have two glasses of, say, 6-ounce pours, call it one white and one red, you’re still saving a “Jackson” or a “double-sawbuck” (That’s a $20 bill) over that $50 bottle, and that can pay for your dessert.

Of course, that is making the assumption that the by-the-glass offerings are up to par. In this day and age, the best restaurants, those that genuinely care about their customers and hospitality, put together by-the-glass lists that provide good wines for reasonable prices. Some wine bars and restaurants have elevated the opportunities for guests by increasing the number of wines available. Those with a cruvinet — a wine preservation system that can keep multiple bottles of opened wines fresh — are proliferating.

One of the best examples is Wine Bar George in Orlando, Florida, at the Walt Disney World Resort. Run by Master Sommelier George Miliotes, the by-the-glass offerings number in the hundreds, and the list gives customers the choice of buying a bottle, by the glass or even tasting by the ounce. Let’s say you want to try a Harlan Estate Napa Valley, California 2021 (a baller wine, for sure) that’s on the bottle list at Wine Bar George for $2,400. They will happily pour you a one-ounce taste for $85 or a 6 oz. glass for $510. You may have to eschew dessert, but you’ll have the opportunity to taste what may otherwise be an unattainable wine.

If there are two of you sitting down to dine, then the equation changes a bit. The option to buy a bottle comes into play. A 750 milliliter bottle of wine contains five glasses, so if you are both happy drinking the same wine and want two-plus glasses each with your meal, then buying a bottle makes sense for a compatible two-top. And this opens you up to the opportunity of diving into a wine list — one of the great pleasures of going out to eat.

However, if the two of you want to drink different wines with your courses or your pairing choices based upon the food you both ordered are not compatible, then maybe you should reconsider and go back to the by-the-glass list. A glass of Chablis might work perfectly with your Dover sole, but your companion’s duck confit screams for something a bit more substantial, like a Syrah. The best-case scenario is that the restaurant you’re dining in has both Bernard Defaix Chablis and a Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Syrah Hermitage on their by-the-glass lists. If so, you may just be dining at Element 47 in The Little Nell hotel. Lucky you.

And back to that four-top who ordered a little willy-nilly at the top of this story. Dining out is all about conviviality, getting out with friends both old and new and sharing good food and good wine. There are no rules, but if you can possibly swing it, going out with four or more people may allow you to select two bottles of wine to go with your mutual meal.

Take your time, and allow your friends to review the menu first and see what they may be having. Ask around the table about wine preferences, and then open the list. See what the sommelier has to say about what she or he might suggest or order from the list. And, if you are so inclined, order a bottle of white and a bottle of red to round out and inspire your get-together.

By the bottle or by-the-glass, there is no right or wrong way to make a choice. It all depends on circumstances. What is your budget? How many people are imbibing? What are you ordering? What options does the list provide? It may sound complicated, but it’s not. Just have fun.

And take your time.