Dear Editor:Well, we’ve thrown out all the jewels andRefilled the family vaultWith a lot of little packages ofNew designer salt.First the Food and Wine gave samples,Then the Cooking School of AspenShowed us how to sprinkle on that stuff.(Though prices left us gaspin’.)There’s a black salt from Hawaii andA red one from JapanAnd some thick salt from the Dead SeaThat gets lively in the pan.True, our guests are sometimes baffled, andMy weak-eyed mother-in-lawGot into a bit of trouble whenShe sniffed some up a straw.Still, it lends a crunchy textureAnd makes subtle flavors bolder,And it’s far more chic than Morton’s toThrow over your left shoulder.Ethel GofenChicago
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