Rustique Bistro | AspenTimes.com

Rustique Bistro

by Amanda Rae

Opened on Restaurant Row in 2000, Rustique Bistro celebrates its 18th season in Aspen this year with the completion of a subtle, sleek makeover. The restaurant's country-French aesthetic has been polished without scrubbing away charm: Gone are the distressed-wood storm shutters, opening up westward views from picture windows in the 80-seat dining room. Oiled white-oak walls and exposed wooden tabletops replace terracotta and tablecloths, joining new leather banquette seating and stools in the bar with seating for another 22 — intimate nooks preserved in both areas.

Happily, diners will find all of Rustique's beloved menu items, plus a few winter updates and additions.

"We're keeping the classics, but adding simpler, lighter-style dishes," says founder and owner Rob Ittner. He doesn't mean salad, but entrées including fluffy sweet-potato gnocchi with pulled confit duck leg and butter-orange gastrique and the revered coq au vin over buttered noodles, which moves from an offseason-only special to the main menu year-round. Ittner's favorite short-rib risotto at the bar makes the same leap to the dinner menu. (Lunch, by the way, returns in summer.)

Bestsellers — Ruby trout with Brussels sprouts, fingerling potatoes, and beurre blanc sauce; pot au feu braised beef with vegetables and horseradish sauce — are cooked simply by executive chef Robbie Kostrba, who joined Rustique this spring after a stint at Thomas Keller's Bouchon in Las Vegas. His seasonal salmon dish echoes a version years ago: seared and served over a bed of rustic-cut ratatouille alongside a swoop of vinegary Béarnaise sauce. Kostrba's new duck breast entrée is cooked sous vide, skin seared to a crisp, and served over parsnip-Granny Smith apple purée with watercress, crunchy tobacco shallots, and orange demi-glace.

Some of the more difficult seats to nab in town are found at Rustique's curved, 10-seat bar, where locals come for the French onion soup-inspired burger with deeply caramelized onions, Gruyère cheese, and aioli; award-winning truffled-mushroom mac and cheese; steak au poivre; and happy hour discounts beginning at 4:30 p.m.

Francophiles will enjoy European charcuterie and cheese boards; a robust 350-bottle list of primarily French and eclectic American wines; and sweet specials nightly by pastry chef Oscar Rivas. Downstairs, a private wine cave seats parties up to 30; Rustique also caters its longstanding brand of familiar comfort for up to 220 guests offsite.

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NOT TO MISS

Intimate seating, unstuffy service, and lightened-up classic French fare equal comfort

“Treasures” from a 350-bottle list of French and eclectic American wines

A spot at the 10-seat bar for 4:30 p.m. happy hour specials — if you can get one!

THE DETAILS

216 S. Monarch St. • 970-920-2555 • rustiquebistro.com

Prices Starters $9 to $26; soups and salads $9 to $19; small plates $16 to $22; main dishes $36 to $44; sides $8-$12; bar menu $8 to $24
Ambience Rustic country French charm in a comfortable, modern atmosphere
New Signature Dishes Seared duck breast with apple-parsnip purée, shaved fennel, watercress, tobacco shallots, and orange demi-glace; salmon a la plancha with rustic ratatouille and Béarnaise sauce; coq au vin with lardons, pearl onions, and buttered noodles

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