WineInk: Pairing with pig

With the off-season upon us, many Aspen locals head from the hills for other locales far, far away — not just physically far away, but also distant in terms of culinary and wine options. Some find themselves in Mexico or Latin America, others the Far East or Europe. And partaking in the local cuisine often means pairing wines with foods that are different from those we are used to. 

That’s part of the joy of travel.

I thought about this recently as I set out for the bar of a restaurant in New Orleans, a not as distant nor as exotic location as some are currently experiencing, but still one with a unique culinary heritage. Yes, it is one of the best eating towns in this US of A.

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My quest was for a plate of blacked pig ears with smoked aoli, a delicacy prepared by Nina Compton at her Compère Lapin (French for “brother rabbit”) in the Old No 77 Hotel & Chandlery in the heart of the Warehouse Arts District of the city. Compton, who has blessed us here with visits during the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen (She was a Best New Chef in 2017), also beguiles in the Big Easy with her Bywater American Bistro.

But it is the mashup of the flavors of the Caribbean and Creole foods prepared with the classic French techniques that highlight the menu at Compère Lapin that captures me. Oh, and the place has an amazing, ever-evolving wine list, which features a number of interesting options for diners who like to step outside the box.

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About those blackened pig ears. Let me start by saying they aren’t for everyone. Served as an appetizer (for just $6 — a steal if there ever was one), they look like crispy, fried noodles. Gelatinous and chewy, they also have a hint of spice and heat, which makes them irresistible if you like that sort of thing. Compton describes them as “crispy, savory gummy bears, if that makes sense.” And if you have ever indulged in them, it makes perfect sense.

The question is, what wine pairs with pig ears?   

Pairing wines can be a very personal process. But begin with the one rule that means the most: There are no rules. If you have a yearning for a particular wine with a dish, say, a buttery California Chardonnay with a grilled flat iron steak and garlic butter, go with it. Sure, it breaks the standard edict of red wine with meat, and fish with white wine, but I’ll sip a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay with my grilled flatiron all night long and be a better man for it.

Still, there are a few — let’s call them suggestions — that can make a tricky wine pairing experience a little easier to navigate. First, always take into account the “weight” of the food and the wine you are pairing it with. Heavier dishes, like a hefty pasta or grilled meats, go better with full-bodied wines like Shiraz or Bordeaux blends, while lighter-weight meals, like grilled trout or sautéed chicken thighs, just might pair better with wines that are little more delicate — perhaps a Sauvignon Blanc. But don’t rule out lighter-bodied, red-wine styles with that chicken or even with seafood. A Grenache-based Rosé or a lighter style Pinot Noir may be an excellent choice. Generally, the lower the tannins, the better the red wine will be with lighter dishes. 

The same holds true with spicy foods. Those wines that are lower in alcohol will have a better chance of complementing the heat. Our friends who drink Gewurztraminer with their spicy Thai dishes or pair a Gruner Veltliner with the smoky, pepper-infused offering from Oaxaca know what I am talking about.

And Karen McNeil, wine writer and author of the “Wine Bible,” has another apropos thought: “Great with great, humble with humble” to describe the concept of pouring your collectable wines with a serious meal, and vice versa. Open that $15 Zinfandel with the take-home Tuesday night pizza, but pair your best Bordeaux with the best braised meats you can find. It may sound obvious, but it is a good thing to consider when making a wine pairing.

And, if you can, think about selecting wines that come from the same region as the dish you are planning to serve it with. That can be easy if you are traveling in, say, Lisbon or Buenos Aires, but it is a little more difficult in Tulum, Phuket, or, yes, New Orleans, all of which are mega miles from the nearest wine regions.

That said, the blackened pig ears are relatively light and crunchy; they impart a little spark of heat and are as humble as a food can be. So, how do I pair a wine with them was the question.

My first thought was pretty pedestrian, if you will, as I thought about going with a Pinot Noir that was on the by-the-glass list from the reliable and affordable Pinot Project. But that sounded a little too, well, pedestrian.

My second thought involved another by-the-glass offering: A Wade Cellars Three By Wade Chenin Blanc 2021 made by former NBA star Dwyane Wade who, coincidently, has been in the news this week for a statue of him just unveiled in Miami at Kaseya Center. And, it’s somewhat controversial, to say the least. Let me assure you the wines are better than the bronze statue, which was labeled “The Worst Statue in the History of Sports” by The Atlantic Magazine. But I was looking for something more unique, as this was my moment with the pig ears.

So, I went deeper into the wine list, and there it was. Light, bright, low in alcohol, and cute as a pig. I asked the bartender to pop the crown cap on a bottle of Pet Nat Rosé, made by Andrew Jones of Field Recordings in Paso Robles, California. I don’t normally order Pet Nat wines, but this sparkling sensation was the right call. The wine was delicate and light, fresh and low in alcohol, humble as they come, and made in the USA. It fit all of the above criteria, and, most importantly, it was delicious.

Pig perfect.